Penang’s Kek Lok Si (Temple of Sukhavati, the Western Pure Land )

Kek Lok Si
from Google Images

Located on a spiritual hill, Huock San Kek Lok Jan Si (or just Kek Lok Si) also known as the Temple of Supreme Bliss as well as the Temple of Sukhavati (Sukhavati being Amitabha Buddha’s Western Pure Land), is a sprawling temple complex found at Air Itam, Penang in Malaysia and is the nation’s largest Buddhist temple and one of Southeast Asia’s biggest as well.

Founded in 1890 by the late Venerable Beow Lean of the nearby Georgetown Kuan Yin Teng (Temple of the Goddess of Mercy), Kek Lok Si is a site not to miss when you visit Penang, Malaysia as it’s an incredible Buddhist wonderland filled with stunning temples, beautiful representations of the countless Buddhist deities and gods as well as it’s legendary 30-metre tall towering Kuan-Yin statue and 100 metre high Pagoda, both that can be seen from afar as you drive up to the temple.

After having gained the sponsorships and donations from various Hokkien tycoons, Kek Lok Si was eventually founded by Venerable Beow Lean and under his leadership, the temple saw the construction of the Hall of Bodhisattva’s alongside the Hall of the Devas, Hall of the Devawira as well as the Tower of the Sacred Books and by 1904, Kek Lok Si’s first phase was completed before Venerable Beow Lean then visited to China & paid homage to-the then Chinese Emperor, Emperor Guangxu who presented him with a set of Buddhist sutra’s, and his own hand-written scripts whilst the late Empress Dowager Cixi’s very own hand-written scrips were also given to the Venerable as a gift for the temple (and to this day the late de-facto ruler of the latter Qing Dynasty’s hand-written scripts can be seen at one of the temple’s many archways).

The following year, Beow Lean was properly installed as Kek Lok Si’s first and inaugural Venerable before being Venerable Poon Teong succeeded him which then saw the construction of the 100-metre high Pagoda combining Chinese, Thai and Burmese architecture and it boasts ten-thousand Buddha’s in the pagoda on it’s walls. This pagoda is also known as “King Rama VI Pagoda” since the late Siamese King laid the foundation stone of this incredible landmark of Kek Lok Si and Penang, thus making him another monarch to add their influence onto this majestic sprawling temple complex.

And after many years of construction, the famous pagoda finished construction in 1930 and at the bottom is of Chinese influence, with Thai influence for the middle part of the pagoda whilst it’s topped off with a Burmese crown, thus reflecting the religious diversity and ethnicity of the Penang community.

Eventually Venerable Poon Teong was succeeded by Venerable Yuan Ying in 1938 but soon the temple couldn’t find anyone to succeed the third chief Abbott of the temple until in 1968, Venerable Pat Sheng was appointed. Sheng was then succeeded by Venerable Tat Neng in 1990 before Venerable Jit Hang took over from him and has been currently serving since 1997.

And it was under the leadership of Venerable Jit Hang that saw the start of the construction of the now-legendary 30-metre tall Kuan Yin statue that has helped made Kek Lok Si an icon and a landmark attraction in Penang, Malaysia, however the height of the Kuan-Yin Statue was restricted to avoid it’s shadow falling on the Penang State Mosque (Islam is the official religion of Malaysia).

The bronze Kuan Yin statue stands underneath a tall pavilion overlooking both the temple and Georgetown and it replaced the former plastic Kuan Yin statue which had succumbed to fire with the exception of it’s head. And in 2002, the statue was inaugurated before a pavilion was built to cover it with further embellishments being carried out years later.

View of the Kuan Yin statue at Kek Lok Si
From Google Images

The Ground Level of Kek Lok Si

On the ground level, it features souvenir stalls and a turtle liberation pond where turtles are liberated as an ode to Buddha.

There’s also a huge boulder inscribed with a long poem, supposedly written by a poet from the imperial Tang Dynasty more than 2000 years ago (is it actually from the Tang dynasty though?)

kek Lok Si turtle pond
From Google Images

The Middle Level of Kek Lok Si

As you drive up to the temple and park your car, you’ll be greeted by the massive Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva Hall (which was the first hall built under the temple’s inaugural Chief Abbott, Venerable Beow Lean) that houses three serene & smiling golden-gilded Guan Yin statues and whilst in there, be sure to look up and admire the impressive arts and embellishments depicting Buddhist stories & lore regarding the Bodhisattva of Compassion and Mercy.

Outside the Bodhisattva hall, one can get a great view of Kek Lok Si and marvel at it’s sheer size and what the rest of the temple has to offer.

Walking ahead, one will find themselves in a garden with a mini pagoda standing in the middle of a fountain with a statue of a seated Gautama Buddha under a small red pavilion with the five Bhikkus. Up the stairs leads to a beautiful decorated entrance into the cloister of Amitabha Buddha’s lining the perimeter.

And as you walk through this area featuring the Amitabha Buddha’s and notice the symbol on their chest, to think that it’s the Nazi swastika would be wholly misguided because it isn’t, in fact the Nazi’s hijacked the symbol as their party’s own brand and had it twisted. To tell the difference between a Nazi swastika and a religious one is that the religious swastika is always rested flat and in Kek Lok Si and on every Buddha, this is not a Nazi swastika and there is in fact a plague nearby that’ll guide tourists and visitors to gain a better understanding of the symbol so as to avoid misguided thinking.

What’s on the chests of the Amitabha Buddha’s is indeed called the Swastika but it’s considered a “good luck” symbol or as a symbol of Buddha’s heart and it often appears on the chest of Buddha statues as well as being used to mark the beginnings of sacred Buddhist texts. And the swastika was also originally used to symbolise the footsteps of Lord Buddha as well, but unfortunately, due to the corruption and desecration by the German Nazi’s, it’s forever engrained into the minds in the west as a symbol of racial supremacy which has thus ruined the symbol’s ancient religious meaning forever.

A real damn shame.

It’s also here in the midsection of the temple where one can find the Amitabha Pagoda, where upon paying the a small fee can walk up to see a standing statue of Amitabha at the top.

There’s also the interconnected Hall of the Devas (Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings) & Hall of Mahavira (Hall of the Buddhas of Five Regions) and in the Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings, the four guardians of the heavenly compass are seated on both sides with two to the left of the Laughing Buddha statue and two to it’s right, each holding their own weapons that they use to defeat & subdue evil spirits whilst crushing various evil-doers under the feet.

The Laughing Buddha, seated in the middle of the Hall of the Deva’s is actually the most common incarnation of the future Chinese Buddha, the Maitreya Buddha (who’s prophesied to succeed Gautama Buddha upon his retirement) and a new world will arise when the dharma begins to die off with Maitreya having taken Gautama’s spot in order to keep the dharma alive (dharma being the Buddhist doctrine and alongside the sangha and the Buddha, are part of the ‘three jewels” of Buddhism) and the Laughing Buddha sits there as a happy deity, spreading and radiating joy and humanity to all those who visit him in the temple.

And inside the Mahavira Hall (main hall of any Buddhist temple) features three golden-gilded encased statues of Gautama Buddha, the current Lord Buddha and founder of Buddhism.

However, one of the two main attraction at Kek Lok Si is the famous 100 metre high “Ban Po Thar” (also known as the “Rama Pagoda) Burmese, Thai & Chinese pagoda that can be assessed through a archway with Empress Dowager Cixi’s handwritten script at the temple’s midsection.

Ban Po Thar/Rama Pagoda at Kek Lok Si
From Google Images

With a Chinese base followed by a Thai middle topped off with a Burmese crown, Ban Po Thar is also known as the “ten thousand Buddha pagoda” with 10,000 alabaster Buddha’s including various statues in it including a grand one from Thailand who was deified.

And also, by paying a small 2RM entrance fee, one can enter into the spectacularly beautiful & marvellously regal “Five-Region Buddha Hall” which contains three Buddha’s and tall granite pillars that hold up the room. And also, don’t forget to also purchase a wishing ribbon to hang up on the tree at the Five-Region Buddha Hall as well! The kids will love it!

Now onwards to Ban Po Thar! And well it’s best explored by yourself and with your friends and families, the pagoda contains various Buddha statue and by climbing up to the top, one can get a fantastic view of the temple & Georgetown down below Kek Lok Si including the aforementioned Amitabha Pagoda as well. And there’s also a small sleeping Buddha within the pagoda and it’s also not surprising to see Thai influence at Kek Lok Si, considering where the temple is situated, it’s actually close to Thailand.

And when you exit the pagoda, be sure to take a final look at the splendid Five-Regions Buddha Hall as it looks like a palace itself! And there are also turtle statues in the middle as you head towards the archway as well.

Outside the pagoda there’s a small room where’s a large old bell that you can ring, so make sure to check it out.

HillTop level of Kek Lok Si.

Upon finishing with the pagoda & the ground floor, be prepared to make your way to the famous 30-metre Guan-Yin bronze statue that’s situated on a different hill than the ground level but has become one of Kek Lok Si’s famous attractions as well as helping to put the temple on the map.

One can visit the legendary statute by going on Malaysia’s first ever inclined lift in the temple’s souvenir gift shop and for a mere price of RM3 and by taking the lift, you can reach the statue without having to walk to it.

And upon reaching the hilltop, you’ll be greeted by another souvenir shop and by walking out, you’ll see the surviving plastic head of the former Guan Yin statue which is situated there after the rest of it’s body had succumbed to fire and it’s why we see a 30-metre tall bronze Guan yin statue instead protected by a large pavilion.

Walking towards the statue, it’s easy to see why this 30-metre tall Guan Yin statue has made Kek Lok Si so famous, it’s a towering yet incredible statue and there are stairs in which you walk up to take an even closer look at it. Nearby the statue and the pavilion is also a smaller pavilion and a pond where one can relax and admire Guan-Yin after having walked so much throughout the sprawling temple complex and on both sides of the Guan-Yin statue are two fierce deities protecting her and the pavilion.

Also on the hilltop of Kek Lok Si are the Guang Tong Grand Hall and the Chun Ti Bodhsattva Hall as well as the Arhart Hall and the Hostel Blocks for dharma assemblies.

And make sure to buy a return ticket to get back down via the inclined lift as well!

Upon leaving the temple, if you’re hungry you can visit it’s vegetarian restaurant near the liberation pond or visit the famous Air Itam Assam laksa which has been popular for those visiting Kek Lok Si and the temple area for their delicious and memorial Assam Laksa noodles (and believe me when I say this, Assam laksa’s are the best noodles so round up your incredible visit to the temple with a delicious bowl of their laksa!)

Final Part

Once was a lavish temple sanctioned by the Qing dynasty built on top of “crane hill” (as it was dubbed by Venerable Beow Lean due to it looking like a crane), thanks to Venerable Beow Lean’s five successors and their leadership, Kek Lok Si grew into what’s now known as Malaysia’s biggest Buddhist temple & one of Southeast Asia’s largest one as well. It’s halls have been refurnished and properly renovated into some of the most stunningly picturesque and gorgeously embellished halls, it’s gardens & courtyards are just as incredible as the praying halls are.

Mixed in with the famous Ban Po Thar & the towering 30-metre Guan Yin statue on the hilltop, it’s no wonder Kek Lok Si is one of the most visited temples in Penang.

I haven’t included a lot of pictures regarding Kek Lok Si, rather have included links to those I’ve found online but undoubtedly, pictures of the temple do not do justice and neither does words when it comes to describing them as I sincerely believe that visiting the temple is far better so you can see it’s regally stunning halls, it’s colourful gardens & their famous attractions for yourself.

But if you want an even better experience of Kek Lok Si, then I highly recommend you visit it during the 30 days after Chinese New Year day since they’ll lavishly decorate the entire temple in lanterns and when it’s night-time, they’ll lit it up and you’ll be absolutely amazed as it transforms the temple into a wonderland of amazing and incredible colours. Even Ban Po Thar & the pavilion housing the 30-metre tall Guan Yin statue gets light up as well!

In fact, visit it during the Chinese New period since they’ll open longer so you’ll have a better chance to explore the temple-I highly recommend it!

But despite it being a popular tourist attraction though, one mustn’t forget that Kek Lok Si is still a working monastery with active monks and nuns and that you’ll be praying to revered deities and Buddha’s of the Buddhist religion as well so make sure you dress appropriately, wear comfortable footing (as you’ll be walking around a lot) and also bring a water bottle too so you won’t get thirsty whilst exploring the Temple of Supreme Bliss.

So whenever the international borders open and the threat of the Coronavirus isn’t as terrible as it currently is in Malaysia (right now it has over a hundred thousand cases) , make sure to include Kek Lok Si in your itinerary. Penang is a four hours drive from Kuala Lumpur, the capital city of Malaysia but you can also take the plane (if interstate travel is permitted at the time) and travel locally to Penang, but if you’re in the city then don’t miss the Temple of Supreme Bliss for you won’t regret it at all.

Kek Lok Si lit up at night
From Google Images

And now I shall leave you with two great Youtube videos on Kek Lok Si that’ll show you just how wide and incredible the temple is.

Kek Lok Si Temple
Via Youtbe

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